![]() Watch a step-by-step look at a multi-pitch, including how to swap leads after the belay: Is the rope fed into my belay device in the correct position?.Have I locked all locking carabiners in the belay system?.Am I secured by at least two solid points on the anchor?.This means you must do your due diligence of ensuring your and your partner’s safety! Before you belay from above, always ask yourself … Related: Anchor Building Tips from Hans Florineīefore belaying your partner in a multi-pitch situation, always remember that no one is there to double check other than you. In the event of a fall, the device will lock. To begin belaying, feed rope up through the device with one and while simultaneously pulling down with your braking hand.You should feel the auto-locking capability. Before belaying, tug on the climber’s rope to ensure you have positioned the rope correctly.Take another locking carabiner, and clip the rope loop and the belay device’s cable, and lock the gate shut.Insert a loop of rope into the ATC’s opening keeping the climber’s end of the rope on top (this essentially pinches/locks the brake strand on the bottom in the case of a fall).Clip a locking carabiner into the large metal loop on the device, attach to the master point of your anchor, and lock the gate of the carabiner.After pulling up the rope from your seconding climber, Ideally, your master point will be above waist level. When building your anchor to belay in guide mode, you’ll want to ensure that you have enough distance to comfortably belay your partner. The benefits of guide mode, outlined in this video: Slower when trading leads, as belayer must re-adjust belay directly to harness.Can be uncomfortable to belay at waist level or below (see video below).Requires owning a guide-ATC device and additional locking carabiner.Easier to belay two climbers simultaneously.It can be easier to escape the belay belayer is not part of system.the device will auto-block the rope and catch a climber in event of a fall If belayer drops belay, falls unconscious, etc.Can provide more comfort because the system is not directly attached to the belayer. ![]()
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